Next we embarked on the most grueling stretch of road in our entire trip. Our destination was a pair of waterfalls (Selfoss and Dettifoss) 25 miles along a brutal road. Guidebooks warn not to try this road without 4-wheel drive. I concur. Fortunately our little Suzuki was more than a match for the road. As we leave the main road, the side road is paved. We think, hey, no big problem. Then it switches to dirt. Next it becomes brutally wash boarded, and finally dissolves into a long string of deep potholes shaped roughly like a road. 25 miles up and 25 miles back each took 2 hours.

Was it worth it? Absolutely. The waterfalls are magnificent. In September, we are at low water but the river still thunders over Iceland's highest falls. High waters have scrubbed the valley clean ... river rock and little more. Above the level of the river, because we're high and it rains a lot here, it's incredibly green. Although we didn't have time, it would have been great fun to hike the river enjoying dozens of neat falls. But our timeline lay along a different path, so we enjoy a few hours hiking around the falls, and then move along.